Wednesday, August 26, 2009

The trouble with recipies...

... is that they focus on procedures instead of understanding.

I'd like a book that talked me through cake theory. What is the ratio of milk : eggs : butter : flour to make a general cake? How is a mud cake different? What effect is produced if you alter the flour/milk ratio? What ingredient is it that makes a cake richer? etc etc.

And what of biscuit theory, scone theory or slice theory? [I'm sure they're related.]

When kids learn cooking from mum or dad or the school home-ec teacher, all they learn is how to follow a recipe. I want more that that. I want to learn how to write the recipe book (or mostly, just how to do without it.)

15 comments:

  1. Seconded. Have always wanted that.

    Unlike spices, where you can somewhat experiment for different tastes, cakes are a bit more difficult. A cake that's a flop is unfortunately, just that.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Still, wouldn't mind some spice combination theory lessons...

    ReplyDelete
  3. That would be great - wouldn't it! What to put with what.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Regarding spices - smell them before adding them - what kind of flavour do you want - sweet, savoury, peppery... - if they smell like what you want, try them in small amounts (a pinch, not a teaspoon) to begin with; taste test as you go - eventually you get an idea of how much of each you want for different dishes.

    As for cakes, why not sit down with a few recipes and see if you can work out the proportions and what are the differences between types - start by looking at an ordinary sponge vs chocolate sponge.

    ReplyDelete
  5. YES! Exactly why I'm always hankering to modify and fiddle with the same recipes...some of the results are rather disastrous, but at least I'm learning what exactly makes the original so [insert positive adjective here].

    ReplyDelete
  6. I've had to fiddle in Japan, because the ingredients aren't quite the same - especially flour. Their flour is designed for light sponges and more is required for heavy biscuits! I finally got my damper recipe right - makes such a difference!

    ReplyDelete
  7. I read about a book like this once, but I've forgotten where. If I remember, I'll let you know. For the theory of cooking and food more generally you could try Harold McGee's "On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen." Not sure if it has actual basic recipes or ratios for cakes etc but it's an interesting read.

    ReplyDelete
  8. I agree! I'm very much a non recipe person. One of my friends, on the other hand, is a big recipe person. She will even follow exactly the recipe on the back of a sauce jar.

    I figure out my theories through trial and error. It's the only way you learn.

    ReplyDelete
  9. I think this is one of the greatest ideas I have heard this year.

    I am tempted to start writing a cookbook myself. I reckon you could sell squillions.

    ReplyDelete
  10. Simone...I've found your desired cookbook!! It was sitting on the recent returns display shelf at the library this afternoon. It's called 'Ration: The simple codes behind the craft of everyday cooking' written by Michael Ruhlman. It gives you the basic ratios for:
    Doughs - bread, pasta, pie, biscuit, cookie;

    Batters - pound cake, sponge cake, angel food cake, quick bread, muffin, fritter, pancake, popover crepe;

    Stocks and sauces - stock, consomme, roux, thickening ration, slurry, thickening rule;

    Farcir - sausage, sausage seasoning, mousseline, brine;

    Fat-based sauces - Mayonnaise, Vinaigrette, Hollandaise;

    Custards - free-standing custard, creme anglaise, chocolate sauce, caramel sauce

    And it also explains the theory behind each and gives some simple variations/recipes for each.

    If your interested, the author's website is http://blog.ruhlman.com/ and you can also buy it as an e-book from http://books.simonandschuster.com/Ratio/Michael-Ruhlman/9781416566120

    ReplyDelete
  11. oops...just realised I made a typo in the title of the book. It should be 'Ratio: The simple codes behind...'

    ReplyDelete
  12. great! Which library did you see it at?

    ReplyDelete
  13. At the Hamilton City Council library here in NZ. Unfortunately it doesn't look like BCC library has a copy of it yet (they have some copies of his 1st book, so maybe you should suggest that they buy a copy of this one).

    ReplyDelete
  14. Sorry Mel - I didn't click through your name and thought you were a mel that lives close by! NZ is a bit far. I'll put the book on my birthday list for Andrew!

    ReplyDelete
  15. Bugger. I just stopped by to report that I'd found the same book. I was even going to claim to be the master of the interwebs. Here it is on Amazon. It's actually called Ratio though, so I should get points.

    ReplyDelete